BUNK BED QUESTIONS ANSWERED

 

Bunk Beds have some hidden advantages and disadvantages - check your needs here.

I made strong safe bunk beds for over seven years and in that time answered hundreds of questions and received lots of "feed back" from parents.  Whether you are looking for something cheap or to go with a theme in your kids room, you will find some practical information in the questions below.

Q    Do I really need Bunk Beds? 
 Apart from the obvious space saving advantage, they can often:

  • End sleep issues because they are "fun"
  • Can get kids out of your bed!
  • Great space saving.
  • Safe territory for older kid on top bunk allowing for a sense of independence
If you are considering bunk beds for kids right through their teens, you will probably  find bunk beds unsatisfactory unless you have no choice.  I have found kids like to go to their rooms for privacy and to chat with friends, in which case climbing in and out of the top bunk can be a bore after age 12 or 13.

An alternative space saving idea to consider is a Captains' bed with drawers underneath.  This may obviate the need for a dresser and kids tend to prefer them when they get older.  However, make sure you have room to move when the drawers are pulled out!

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Q. What are the safety issues I need to consider?
To study the safety issues in full detail, check out the Consumer Product Safety Council   Some important factors are:

  • Kids should be six or older to use the top bunk.  This is a recommendation by the council and you just have to know your own kids and make your decision accordingly.
  • Guard rails must be present on both sides of the top bunk, even if the bed is pushed against the wall.  Small kids have somehow managed to fall between the wall and the bed.
  • The top of the top guard rail should be approximately 5" above the top of the mattress. (see the mattress section for more details.).
  • There should be safety wires under the top bunk if the mattress is supported by a board supported just by blocks (cleats) on the side rails. With just side supports the kid on the lower bunk can kick the top bunk and dislodge the board so that the top bed falls on the person below.
  • It should go without saying that the bed should be strongly constructed and with smooth edges.
  • Allow at least 3 feet between the beds and between the top bunk and the ceiling.

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  Q Should I get metal or wooden beds?  

Metal bunk beds dominate the cheaper end of the market but  they tend to squeak and the welds can break making them difficult to repair.  Wooden beds tend to be the most popular but they vary enormously in price.  The economics of bunkbeds go like this:

  • They are heavy and bulky and therefore expensive to ship from the manufacturer to retailer.

  • The less material in the bed, the lower the "mass" and therefore the more flimsy they seem on the old shake test!

  • The cheap bunk beds are just that - cheap and often dangerous.  To justify the higher prices needed for shipping and retailing manufacturers tend to make the beds more elaborate by incorporating drawers and other extras. It's in the extras that they make their profit so make sure that things like drawers are well constructed.

  • Don't forget to include the cost of mattresses as they can add substantially to the final price.

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    Q.  Where do I buy to get the most value?  Fortunately, bunk beds are not complicated to make and there are lots of individuals making beds form small work shops and garages (like I did) and who sell them directly to the public.  To find people like this just type in bunk beds in the custom search box below. These beds tend to be rugged and basic in appearance but they do offer a strong and affordable bed.   I would assert that most of these builders are familiar with the safety issues associated with beds but there is no way they can afford specialized testing of each model.   Again,  you become familiar with the information listed above under safety.

    Q.  What do I need to know about mattresses?  The hardest part about bunk beds is making the top bunk!  (tip: put a fitted sheet over the mattress before you heave it over the guard rails).   A basic 312 coil insulated mattress is usually fine for both adults and kids.  This level of mattress is generally seven to eight inches thick and is not too heavy.  Leave your thick plush mattresses for the bottom bunk.

    I prefer the mattress to be supported by a bunkie board rather than slats.  A bunkie board is a flat covered board, about  1 1/2" thick which gives a  flat surface to support the mattress and you can buy them at pretty well any mattress store or on-line at the Shopping Warehouse  (search on bunkie) They are made from a wooden frame covered with a thin board and cloth, but are constructed in a way that will support plenty of weight. So if you are physically able to climb into the top bunk, you should be quite safe to get up there and read to your kid at bed time!

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    Q. What kind of finish is best? 
     
    A nice shiny lacquer or polyurethane finish looks great in the shop, but rather like patent leather shoes, they never look better than the day they were new.  Whereas leather shoes seem to improve with age and plenty of polish.  I find that these lacquer finishes will get scratched and the bed soon looks beaten up.   I prefer just a stain to give color which you can keep clean with something simple like lemon oil.  This also make repairing the surface for re-sale much easier.

    White is a very popular color and is used a lot in beds made with laminated board.  However if you want a solid wood bed, you should perhaps consider a white pickle stain rather than paint.  Paint will wear off with time especially along the rungs. The pickle will not give you a solid white but may have the effect you are looking for.

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    Q. What kind of wood should I choose? 
    Most solid wood bunk beds are made from pine.  Pine is perfectly strong enough and a lot less expensive than hard wood such as Oak. There are several different species of pine used in the industry, the most popular being Radiata, a relatively clear pine, plantation grown in South America.  Southern Yellow Pine from the US is also extremely solid.  You may also come across beds made from Rubber Wood, sometimes called Parawood, which are made in Malaysia and other countries where they tap latex.  This wood is hard and very suitable for bunk beds.

    Plywood, whenever this is used, is exceptionally strong and perfectly adequate for the job.  Just try to avoid veneered particle board as it tends not to hold fasteners well and generally unsuitable for bunk beds, dressers etc.
     

    Q. What about matching furniture?
    When you have selected your bunk bed, you can purchase unfinished furniture and finish it to match your bunk bed.  In this way you can get exactly the combination of furniture you want and in the right colors.  Please see my short article on buying unfinished furniture.

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Index
The Need
Ages
Safety
 Metal or Wood ?
Mattresses & Bunkie Boards
Finishes
Wood Types

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This Log Bunk Bed only Looks Rustic.

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